France: Some Random Observations

Pont-Neuf Subway Station, Paris

I was just in France recently for 3 weeks. I’m thinking of possibly moving there soon (within 1-2 years perhaps) for an early retirement.  I have been there before, but I was only 12 years old at the time, so I don’t remember much! 

For this trip, I chose to visit Paris, Strasbourg, Lyon, Avignon, and Nice, spending 2-3 full days in each location, with a full week in Paris. I’ll be adding blog entries for each city, with various photos.  But in this post, I want to capture a list of random observations I had during my trip.

In no particular order:

• Personal space is definitely smaller than in the US.  Touching elbows or shoulders is normal on subways, or while sitting on benches in museums, etc. Also mild body odor is pretty common but doesn’t seem to offend anyone. 

• The French wear few graphic tees. Mostly just solid colors, slim fitting, with wool overcoats and small scarves.  (My trip started early March, with temps in the mid-40s to low-50s in Paris.) If you do see graphic tees or hoodies, they are usually sports-related.

• Train stations and metros often have stairs only (at least in Paris).  Escalators/lifts are rare, and if you encounter any, half are broken, and the working ones are usually going down.  It's wise to bring just a single carry-on sized rollerbag with one other item (shoulder bag or backpack).  Otherwise tackling the stairs is tough. 

• I only needed cash/coins a couple times, for using bathrooms, or buying street food. The rest of the time I just used Apple Pay (90% of the time) or credit cards (10%). 

• Businesses that sell food and drink go by many names — bistro, café, brasserie, boulangerie, patisserie, bouche, etc. I'm still not sure of the exact differences.  But the bread and pastries are to die for. I gained 3-4 pounds in just 3 weeks!  My favorites were the tartelettes, which are small round pastries filled with custard and topped with different fruits. 

• Acknowledging others is key to having a pleasant encounter. Always lead with bonjour monsieur (or madame) and end with merci and/or au revoir.  We Americans tend to be too abrupt, hasty, and informal, which is considered rude here.  By following this rule, nearly every interaction I had was friendly. Most speak at least some English, and if you politely lead with bonjour msr/mdm, parlez vous Anglais?, they are usually more than happy to use English.

• Bicycles/scooters travel quite fast and weave thru pedestrian zones like they’re an obstacle course. They leave you very little space too.  I nearly got clocked a few times. 

• The pedestrian lights aren’t followed religiously.  If there isn’t a light at a crosswalk, traffic is supposed to yield, but it’s often a game of chicken, especially with cyclists.

• Typically when you sit down for food they bring you a carafe of tap water and bread unasked. But no butter, that’s not a thing. (Though you can always ask for it.)

• Drip coffee also isn’t really a thing, except in specialty coffee shops. Usually you just order un café which is a shot of “expresso” (not espresso), usually after a meal. Of course they have all the usual espresso drinks, like cappuccinos, etc. 

• In Paris and Lyon, I set up encounters with local guides who volunteer to show visitors around. (Paris Greeters, and Lyon Greeters.)  Totally free, unlike a typical tour, though donations are encouraged to the organizations. Highly recommended!

• Nutritional labels give totals per 100g, not for the whole package/item. Kcal is the same as calories. 

• Bring an extension cord if you use a CPAP machine!  I got lucky that the hotels had ones I could borrow. 

• No need to tip. But rounding up or leaving 1 or 2 euros is fine. Only heavily touristed places expect tips (but never from locals).

• Business hours for stores and restaurants are very reduced compared to the US. 

• Museum lighting is often way too dark for aging eyes!  I had to use the light on my phone several times to see the exhibit. 

• I honestly fully expected loud, obnoxious American tourists but the worst offenders actually seemed to be schoolchildren from France, Germany and Italy. 

• I already knew that floor numbering starts at 0 in Europe, but this still tripped me up a couple times. 

• The French don’t smile much in public places. The default is RBF lol. Apparently they find you suspicious if you are always smiling. But whatever, I did anyway — it’s not like they couldn’t tell I was a tourist from a mile away! And like I said above, once you start a conversation they are usually friendly. The RBF is just a default setting.

• Since I traveled by train (and didn’t rent a car), I did all my shopping at local markets in the city centers. They have pretty much all the essentials you need. A huge reason life in Europe appeals to me is how walkable all the cities and towns are. You really can get by without needing a car.